Why Every Barber Should Master Thinning Shears
Thinning shears are essential tools for any professional barber or hairstylist. When used correctly, they help create softer blends, remove bulk, and add movement to men's hairstyles without compromising the overall shape. This is especially important for thick, coarse, or unmanageable hair types that need refinement.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to use thinning shears on men effectively, avoid common mistakes, and achieve natural-looking finishes that keep clients coming back.
What Are Thinning Shears?
Thinning shears have a distinct design: one blade is notched (serrated), and the other is straight. This allows them to cut some hairs while leaving others untouched, making them ideal for:
- Blending fade lines
- Softening harsh lines or corners
- Reducing bulk without shortening
- Adding texture for movement
There are different types of thinning shears based on the number of teeth:
- Thinning shears (20–30 teeth): Great for blending and soft texture.
- Chunking shears (6–12 teeth): Best for removing bulk fast.
- Finishing shears (40+ teeth): Ideal for subtle blending and detail work.
When to Use Thinning Shears on Men’s Hair
Using thinning shears correctly starts with timing. Here's when to reach for them:
- During the blending phase of a fade
- After the haircut is finished for texture and volume control
- When working with thick or unruly hair
- To remove lines left by clippers or shears
Pro Tip: Always use thinning shears on dry or slightly damp hair—not soaking wet—for best control and visibility.
Step-by-Step: How to Use Thinning Shears on Men
1. Start with a Clean Base Cut
Give the client their desired haircut using your usual clippers or scissors. Shape and structure should be in place before you begin texturizing.
2. Section the Hair
Work in sections to ensure even blending. For most men’s cuts, start at the crown or sides depending on where the bulk lies.
3. Identify Areas of Density
Feel and look for areas where the hair is thick or heavy. These are your target zones for thinning.
4. Angle the Shears Correctly
Hold the shears horizontally or at a slight diagonal depending on the desired texture. Open and close gently—never "chomp" down harshly. A soft cut ensures a natural blend.
- For blending: Stay about 1–2 inches away from the scalp
- For removing bulk: Focus on mid-shaft to ends
- For adding texture: Cut at randomized angles for movement
5. Use the Pull and Cut Method
Comb up a section, pull it taut, and make one or two cuts with the thinning shears. Comb through to remove loose hairs and check the texture before proceeding.
6. Check Progress Constantly
Step back often to examine how the cut is laying. Over-thinning can lead to frizz or weak-looking sections, especially around the crown or bangs.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-thinning: Resist the urge to keep cutting—less is more.
- Using thinning shears on short fades: This can create patchiness. Use them for blending transitions instead.
- Ignoring hair growth patterns: Cowlicks or whorls need extra care.
- Using them too close to the scalp: This can create unwanted volume and fuzz.
Pro Tips for Barbers and Stylists
- Invest in quality shears. Sharp, well-balanced thinning shears make all the difference in control and precision.
- Match the shear to the client’s hair type. Coarse hair may need chunking shears, while fine hair benefits from lighter finishing shears.
- Combine with point cutting. For a more natural look, use point cutting in combination with thinning shears.
- Educate your client. Explain how thinning enhances style without changing length—they’ll appreciate your expertise.
Best Hairstyles for Thinning Shears on Men
Some of the best men’s hairstyles to use thinning shears include:
- Classic taper fade
- Textured crop
- Undercut with layers
- Messy quiff or pompadour
- Medium-length scissor cuts
These styles benefit from added movement, reduced weight, and clean blends that only thinning shears can offer.
Final Thoughts
Knowing how to use thinning shears on men’s hair separates the good barbers from the great ones. When used with intention and precision, these tools can transform a basic haircut into a polished, customized style that enhances your client's look and hair manageability.
Keep practicing, work with different shear types, and always focus on the client’s unique hair texture and style goals.